Saturday, May 9, 2009

Spending the day with David Charlesworth...( well sort of )

Making the Best a Little Bit Better...

In my shop I have a wide selection of hand planes, from vintage Stanley's to the modern designed, and Canadian made Veritas. I'm the proud owner of a James Krenov smoothing plane and also have an assortment of vintage wooden bodied bench planes and special purpose tools. I've acquired all of these tools slowly over the years but have to say that the planes I reach for the most while working wood and find to be much higher quality than all of the others mentioned are my Lie Nielsen hand planes. A league all their own comes to mind...
Right out of the package these tools perform exceptionally well but I'm going to demonstrate a few simple procedures that will make these 'near perfect' tools even better. The tips and techniques I'm going to describe are all methods used by English cabinetmaker and wood working teacher David Charlesworth; his hand plane tuning and technique videos are worth every cent. It's funny to think that people go out and spend thousands of dollars on education but for the price of a handful of DVD's, three books and some time spent in the shop you can get a kind of private lesson from this woodworking master. I had David's books for the past while and finally got around to picking up his videos...better late than never, you're never to old to learn a few new skills. Although I've been working with hand tools for awhile now there are some great tips and techniques in these books and videos that every wood worker should see. I set up a small monitor at the end of my workbench and make my way through the videos...pausing and playing, stopping and re-watching. This is a great way to learn at your own pace and I honestly can't say enough about his videos....extremely informative!
Lie Nielsen bench planes come with a blade ground at a 25° bevel; this is where I'll start to make my adjustments. Following the advice of Charlesworth, I'll regrind the bevel closer to 23°. I use a JET slow speed wet sharpener for all of my grinding applications; it's a good tool that is reasonably priced, easy to set up and dependable. It came with a wide assortment of jigs for different sharpening applications but I tend to only use the one to hold my irons and chisels exclusively. The rest of them I don't bother much with.
After a few minutes on the grinder establishing the new bevel, it's back to my work bench to get set up to flatten the sole of the plane. 'Flatten the sole?' you may be asking yourself...Why should you bother if the tool was manufactured to such high standards?
Even with an exceptionally well made tool like the Lie Nielsen line, there is always a chance that when in use and the plane body is under tension with the cutting iron, chip breaker and lever cap installed in working position, the bottom of the plane could be slightly out of true. This simple process will insure accuracy and enable me to take the finest wood shavings. Starting with a dead flat surface, in my case a piece of safety glass I'll lay a piece of 220 grit sandpaper on it. From here I'll take a felt tip marker and draw out some grid lines over the bottom of the plane. A few passes and you'll quickly be able to see just how flat the plane really is...keep taking passes until the bottom is completely clean. I'll usually do a second round of lines just to make sure things are as flat as they should be. I follow this same procedure for all of my Lie Nielsen hand planes, fine tuning them all at once is a nice way to spend the day and will really pay off when I'm back in the shop next.
In the next shot you can clearly see what the sole of my 140, skew angle block plane while under tension of the iron and lever cap, looks like after a few passes on the 220 grit sandpaper...a bit more work and I'm there.Notice the area around and just behind the mouth in the first shot...these are the areas you want to make sure are dead flat. A fine shaving is impossible to achieve if these areas are not touching your surface to be planed.
Again I'll repeat these steps for my shoulder planes, side rabbet planes, block plane and bench planes.
When flattening the sole of my shoulder planes it's a good idea to use a small square to make sure you're keeping things square; the nature of the shoulder plane in use would not be good if you unintentionally sanded it out of square...something you could easily do with this technique...be careful!
Once I've flattened the soles on the 220 grit sandpaper I'll take some super fine steel wool and a bit of metal polish and give the soles a good going over. This will make all of the tiny scratches left behind by the sandpaper very minute and give the planes a slick sole that makes it a breeze to move across the surface being planed. Seeing as I'm doing this hand plane 'Spring Cleaning Session' I'll go over the sides and lever caps as well, making them shine like a new dime. Any small surface rust, tarnish and grim will be history. From here I'll focus again on the irons. With the newly ground bevels completed, I'll hone a second bevel on my water stones to approximately 33°. Then a third tiny bevel to finish at 35°. This again is a Charlesworth technique that will give you a razor sharp iron capable of taking the finest shavings. Before using the stones though, it's a good idea to use the safety glass and sandpaper method to flatten them as well. You'd be surprised at how easy it is to hollow them while honing.
Once the cutting bevel is prepared it's time to flatten the back of the iron...these planes have been with me for a few years now so they don't require much honing. I made sure when I first purchased them that I spent enough time on each iron insuring a flat back. The one thing I will do is perform "the ruler trick". Again a Charlesworth technique to create a tiny back-bevel on the irons flat side. This may sound strange at first but I promise you the edge created will scare you.
Again, here in this article I'm not getting into all of the details of the process but am trying to say that a few hours spent with some sandpaper on glass, a Charlesworth DVD or two and a few of the finest planes on the market today will indeed take your wood working to the next level...guaranteed!
Cheers.

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Safety Week 2009

My advice for workshop safety week...












Better yet, Unplugg the Woodshop!
-just kidding
Work safe and use your head.
Cheers! (but not until the sharp tools are put away...)

Thursday, April 30, 2009

Continuing Education

Help is Closer than you Think...

This past week I've been watching some new DVD's I recently ordered from Lie Nielsen Toolworks. I'd like to share some thoughts specifically on Don McConnell's Traditional Molding Techniques: The Basics

If you've ever wanted to replicate an heirloom molding perhaps from an antique furniture piece or architectural application, or better yet adding a custom profile to one of your own original designs by way of dedicated hand planes; this production is an absolute must see.
Beautifully filmed at Lie Nielsen Toolworks in Warren, Maine, this instructional DVD offers an incredibly informative lesson in molding making techniques.
As far as the production goes, if you're already familiar with the Lie-Nielsen DVD's you'll notice that the picture quality, editing production and use of clear and easy to understand animations brings the 'wood working how-to video' to another level indeed...the soundtrack also serves it's purpose well creating a welcoming atmosphere to absorb the information.
Don McConnells instruction, pace and execution is seamless, professional and inspiring. It enables us to look well into the working hands of an experienced craftsman and answers the questions most asked when producing this type of work.

I've been gearing up to build an exterior, 'Heritage Door' for a clients home here in the city. It has an elaborate mix of applied moldings and will be an exciting project to finish off my Spring production schedule. The house is situated in Historic Cabbage Town, a protected neighborhood where you can stroll through beautiful tree lined streets and take in some amazing examples of house design, architecture and historic reference.
Wood working education is everywhere around us whether you choose to take a moment to stop and notice; from the instructional DVD to written pages in books or these living examples in museums and like my clients home here in Toronto, a designated neighborhood perfectly preserved for anyone to stop, look and consider the hows and the whys of wood working technique, design and application.
Oh yeah, I almost forgot...Wood Working Blogs aren't a bad place to Graze the Brain either!
Cheers.

Thursday, April 23, 2009

Sawing out the Waste

The Bow Saw Approach

This post was inspired by Chris Schwarz' blog this morning dealing with the plus and minus' of using a Fret saw or a Coping saw for removing the waste between dovetails.
I too have struggled with the thicker blade of the coping saw and the seemingly less than ideal Fret saw market that exists; I have yet to find one I've enjoyed using...
'All you saw makers out there better get your gear on! '
Now that said I've been using my bow saw for the past few months and will probably never go back to the shorter throw of a Fret saw nor the clumsy feel and lack of decent blades for my Coping saw...
The Gramercy Tools 12" Bow saw, fitted with it's finest blade, (it came with three, a fine, medium and heavy) is hard to beat. I challenge anyone who has this saw to tell me what coping or fret saw on the market today does a better job at removing the waste when cutting dovetails. Seriously, I would love to know of a well made Fret saw.
If you don't already own a bow saw, maybe putting it on your-'list of tools to buy' is a good idea, you'll be surprised at how many times you'll be reaching for it. So a bow saw...when you get one...more specifically, get this one, try it out for cutting out the waste between dovetails; you won't be disappointed. It's a great deal at $139.00...actually I just checked the Tools for Working Wood website and it's 10% off right now! Geeze, like 'ol Joel was reading my mind!















This is a shot from two weeks ago; the bow saw on the bench in the background was used to saw out the waste in this difficult,'finger-jointed dovetailed' cabinet I'm building. Tough to beat indeed...

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Shaping Wood

Away with you Straight Edges

This past week I've been working on a bench that is destined for my dining room on one long side of the trestle table I built last year. The lawn furniture my kids have been sitting on up until this point has been re-possessed...hee-hee; you think I'm kidding...
I'm using reclaimed Angelique for the main bench carcass and frames with some Mahogany off cuts for the top cross slats and hand rails. After spending my winter building cabinets, frame work and square straight surfaces, the arms on this bench offered a nice change of pace for me. Nothing straight, gentle flowing lines and all done by eye with spokeshaves, gouges, rasps and scrapers. It's a great place to be, shaping wood without any sense of structure; free form sculpting, a little off of here, a bit more of a sweep there. Liberating indeed!
I use Veritas spokeshaves and have been for the past few years; I originally purchased them when I was building boats and have found them to be extremely easy to set-up and work with. The flat bottom and curved sole were both used in this project. I haven't had a chance to try the Lie-Nielsen/Brian Boggs spokeshaves but would be interested to hear what people think of them. I'm sure being designed by Boggs and manufactured by LN they're superb. It's mostly the weight of the tools I'm mostly curious about, the Lie Nielsen models seem to be bronze and look like they'd have a bit more weight to them...something I think would be a real asset to the working of the tool.
I find this to be one of the more enjoyable elements of wood working-this shaping wood. The bottom frame pictured has bridal joints in the corners and the horizontal pieces are just sitting for now. I'm going to fasten them with only dowels so in a few years as my children grow and get taller I'll be able to take out the bottom cross piece and lower the sitting height of the bench. These bottom cross pieces were an after thought to raise it up to 3 and 4 year old height. A place for children to sit is also what inspired the flowing arms...a little gentler on the head when they bang into it! I'm gearing up for another long haul of projects and am going to try to bring some more of these techniques into my cabinetwork; a blend of sweeping frames and square, structured carcass'...I've been designing some new pieces that will easily blend these two design features...stay tuned.

Friday, April 17, 2009

WOODEN TOOL CHESTS FOR SALE

Custom Made Tool Chests

If you're a frequent visitor here you've already seen some shots of my new tool chest design, if however you found me by searching the internet, welcome! I suspect you were either searching for a tool box building plan or a tool chest for sale. Either way you're in luck. Due to the high web traffic, e-mails and comments on my new toolbox design, I've decided to set aside some time and offer these tool chests for sale. They're made from solid, local hardwoods and feature hand cut joinery and a few unique design features as well. They have a dovetailed tool till inside and hold a surprising amount of hand tools!
If you're interested in purchasing one, Please don't hesitate to contact me at tomfidgen@yahoo.ca
prices start at $650.00 usd.
Custom features and different wood species are also available.

If you're in the category of someone that wants to build your own and were looking for a tool chest design or building plan, then this one will be available in my new book, Made by Hand-Furniture Projects from the Unplugged Wood shop.
It's just at the editing stages and will be released through Popular Woodworking Books this November. Pre-orders will be available here and anyone purchasing a tool chest will get a free, signed copy.
The tool chests will also be numbered, signed and dated as well.
With that, the following pics show some of the design features I mentioned. Perfect for 'on-site' work holding applications.

First off is the detachable shooting board on the lid, very handy indeed.
















Next are a series of 3/4" holes that can be used with dowels or what I use is a Surface Clamp. Lee Valley carries this clamp and you'll never regret purchasing one.
With the three holes, a surface clamp and a small dowel, you can hold down a workpiece on the toolbox lid, use the front clamp holes for jointing edges, or cut some dovetails in the vertical position which is easy to do thanks to the small 'shelf' at the bottom. Line up the edge of the workpiece with the side of the shelf and you know your piece is plumb.
The back of the chest has a small shelf for laying those screws and nails in when on site as well as the option of more tool storage. I keep two back saws, two cam-clamps (used on site to hold the chest down to a flat surface while working)a small level and an engineers square. On the inside, between the tool till and large bottom section I can carry my 'must-have' workshop essential tools. You'll see specifically what that includes on my new DVD, A Beginners Guide to Workshop Essentials, which is included free with every book order! If I sound like I should be wearing a plaid suit and matching belt and shoes...I apologise. I'm just very pleased with this new tool chest design and am looking forward to sharing it with you.
Cheers!

Thursday, April 16, 2009

More on Shop Made Tools

From the Unplugged Woodshop

In my last post I featured the new Large Spokeshave from Veritas tools here in Canada. The fact that I had an idea for a tool very similar in design to this makes me pleased that a company like Veritas is now manufacturing it. It's on my short list of tools to buy. Thinking on this shop made tool line I decided to look back through my shop notebooks over the past two years and found about a dozen different design ideas I've come up with. Nothing in there that'll solve Global Warming; who am I kidding, it wouldn't even draw a parade of rats behind me! Oh well...what is in there are some pretty cool ideas for some work shop aids and bench top appliances. A couple of neat new tool ideas and a few more new designs. I tend to write allot while I'm still waking up at 4:30 a.m. when I usually start my day, so I can sometimes forget what the hell I wrote from one day to the next! Things get forgotten about and later found and fresh again. That said, it'll be interesting to follow through on some of these ideas and build myself some prototypes. I'll keep you posted when I get around to it...put it on the 'long-list' so to speak.
Making tools is a ton of fun and it really helps you understand the angles, bevels and reasons why some planes can chatter and others can run on so smoothly. Why one saw cuts and the other tears. What makes a mallet feel good in your hand? One of the first tools I made in recent years was the Lee Valley spokeshave kit; a Christmas gift from my wife it really covered allot of good workshop techniques. From dimensioning wood to super accurate lay-out. Understanding angles and final shaping and finishing. From there I made a couple of hand planes and some sanding planes,
(readers of Fine Woodworking magazine may remember my Tip of the Month a few issues ago-the sanding planes pictured above.) a mallet and hammer and a little bow-saw my father in law cracked in half last year while limbing an old apple tree! My point is this: Try out new things in your shop whenever you can and time permits. Making your own tools and workshop aids is a great learning exercise for any woodworker at any level.
Try the link on the side bar for www.toolmakingart.com
you'll find lots of tool making inspiration there.
Another wealth of tool making information is: www.norsewoodsmith.com


Speaking of tool making and workshop appliances, due to all of the feedback, traffic and e-mails I get about wooden tool boxes, I'm going to offer a few for sale. I'll probably only have time to build six or so..it'll be first come first serve. In my next blog I'll feature some of the design elements and show some of the tool chests unique features.
A Cabinetmakers Toolchest.