I came across this old film and thought I'd share it here. Really great stuff, check out some of the old tools and workbenches shown in the background shots. Enjoy!
Tuesday, April 1, 2008
Thursday, March 20, 2008
Shaker Style Lap Desk
A Lesson in Hand-Cut Dovetails
This is a small project I made this past winter. A gift for my wife, a school teacher who always sits with a pile of books and papers on her lap, it proved to be a pretty useful gift. Although it looks like a simple enough project, the joinery quickly became a lesson in cutting dovetails by hand.
The piece is a Shaker design I modified slightly in overall dimension. This version seemed to actually fit on my lap better and the angle of the top was adjusted as well. I used Black Walnut for the piece, the main carcass has hand cut through dovetails and sliding dadoes house the inner shelf, dividers and bottom.
The drawer was built in a very traditional way, solid wood for the interior as well as the drawer bottom. I used Butternut for the drawer sides and back with Poplar for the bottom. The top lid has battens on the interior to help keep things in place; I fastened these with Maple dowels down through the top for added strength as well as a visual accent.
A fun piece to build it didn't take up too much time and doesn't need a whole lot of material. I used a hand rubbed oil finish on the exterior with wax on the inside. You could easily change the dimensions of the piece to suit your size requirements.
This is a small project I made this past winter. A gift for my wife, a school teacher who always sits with a pile of books and papers on her lap, it proved to be a pretty useful gift. Although it looks like a simple enough project, the joinery quickly became a lesson in cutting dovetails by hand. The piece is a Shaker design I modified slightly in overall dimension. This version seemed to actually fit on my lap better and the angle of the top was adjusted as well. I used Black Walnut for the piece, the main carcass has hand cut through dovetails and sliding dadoes house the inner shelf, dividers and bottom.

The drawer was built in a very traditional way, solid wood for the interior as well as the drawer bottom. I used Butternut for the drawer sides and back with Poplar for the bottom. The top lid has battens on the interior to help keep things in place; I fastened these with Maple dowels down through the top for added strength as well as a visual accent.
A fun piece to build it didn't take up too much time and doesn't need a whole lot of material. I used a hand rubbed oil finish on the exterior with wax on the inside. You could easily change the dimensions of the piece to suit your size requirements.
Wednesday, March 19, 2008
Treasures From the Far East
Hollows and Rounds...Made in China?

Being a user, collector and lover of hand planes I'm always keeping my eye out for rare or unusual styles. When recently surfing around the Japan Woodworker Online Catalogue I discovered some wooden bodied, Hollows and Rounds that are being manufactured in China. China? I thought...Why not, every thing else is made there so I decided to take a closer look. I've always wanted a nice old set of hollows and rounds; I've searched e-Bay, online and local antique tool dealers but always found that most you come across are over priced old planes that you'll need to spend a lot of time refurbishing to get them back to a user friendly state or are simply nice old tools for someone to put on a shelf and look at. I wanted something I could use and hopefully not have to spend a small fortune on.
After reading the description and studying the photos of these planes I decided to order a few select sizes. They're manufactured in China and arrived well-packaged in cardboard boxes with a borg logo on the side. (no Trek-ie affiliation as far as I could tell)

The description on the Japan Woodworker web-site said the planes have been manufactured in and around Hong Kong for the past 20 years by Mujingfang. They decided to begin producing these high quality Chinese Style Planes seeing that previously, it was a cottage industry with little or no quality control. Furniture makers in and around Hong Kong use hollowing and rounding planes to create moldings and for shaping pieces of furniture. The plane bodies are hand made from well aged Rosewood and are nicely contoured to fit the hand.
They are 6-1/4" long and width varies according to size. The blades are high carbon steel and although needed honing and sharpening on arrival, the extremely reasonable price made it worth my while. They are sold as a set of one hollowing and one rounding plane for each width. I went with the 1/4", 1/2", 1" and 1 1/4" widths. After using these planes for the past six months I'm very pleased with the quality and performance; as for the very-affordable prices all I can say is...Resistance is futile.

Being a user, collector and lover of hand planes I'm always keeping my eye out for rare or unusual styles. When recently surfing around the Japan Woodworker Online Catalogue I discovered some wooden bodied, Hollows and Rounds that are being manufactured in China. China? I thought...Why not, every thing else is made there so I decided to take a closer look. I've always wanted a nice old set of hollows and rounds; I've searched e-Bay, online and local antique tool dealers but always found that most you come across are over priced old planes that you'll need to spend a lot of time refurbishing to get them back to a user friendly state or are simply nice old tools for someone to put on a shelf and look at. I wanted something I could use and hopefully not have to spend a small fortune on.
After reading the description and studying the photos of these planes I decided to order a few select sizes. They're manufactured in China and arrived well-packaged in cardboard boxes with a borg logo on the side. (no Trek-ie affiliation as far as I could tell)

The description on the Japan Woodworker web-site said the planes have been manufactured in and around Hong Kong for the past 20 years by Mujingfang. They decided to begin producing these high quality Chinese Style Planes seeing that previously, it was a cottage industry with little or no quality control. Furniture makers in and around Hong Kong use hollowing and rounding planes to create moldings and for shaping pieces of furniture. The plane bodies are hand made from well aged Rosewood and are nicely contoured to fit the hand.

They are 6-1/4" long and width varies according to size. The blades are high carbon steel and although needed honing and sharpening on arrival, the extremely reasonable price made it worth my while. They are sold as a set of one hollowing and one rounding plane for each width. I went with the 1/4", 1/2", 1" and 1 1/4" widths. After using these planes for the past six months I'm very pleased with the quality and performance; as for the very-affordable prices all I can say is...Resistance is futile.
Wednesday, March 12, 2008
In the Eyes of the Beholder
Perfectly Executed...Ask yourself why.
"A perfectly executed, hand cut dovetail joint..." Oh yeah? It seems lately when I open up woodworking magazines or watch woodworking video clips everybody is talking about their perfect way to cut dovetails. Half-blinds and hounds tooth, better saws and better jigs. Doesn't matter if you use a hand saw, band saw or even some cross-cutting sled on your table saw, all you're going to hear is: "the perfect joint", "the best way to cut this or make that" perhaps even a "better way" in some one's eyes. What is perfection but some un-achievable measure of proficiency, skill, or excellence. Now don't get me wrong, I'm as guilty as the next guy. When I take the time to cut half blind dovetails I want them to be as near perfect as my hands will allow. I'll use contrasting woods so when you open up a drawer they'll jump right out at you. Why? Well let's go further back.
It's kind of ironic that when we think of some of the greatest craftsmen in today's society names such as Sam Maloof or James Krenov immediately come to mind. Sam Maloof who takes 4" metal screws and drives them through his Chair legs to hold them in place. Now look at some of the most famous pieces by Krenov, dowelled together glorified butt joints; and don't get me started about Norm Abrams techniques...Now before you start sending me hate mail for bashing these great masters of the craft, let me start by saying that I admire them to the outer most limits; I find inspiration in all that they do and have studied anything and everything written on their works. But here lies the irony, today's young woodworkers are inundated with teachers pushing them towards excellence. No, their isn't anything wrong with striving towards excellence, but remember to stop every now and then and to ask yourself why. Is Sam Maloof wrong or any less a craftsman for using metal screws in his furniture? Is James Krenov cheapening his work by using a dowel to hold two pieces together instead of some elaborate joint? Go to an antique dealer or walk into a museum and look at the fine examples of hand crafted furniture. Pieces that have stood the tests of time and are the proof we need to justify the joinery in furniture construction. Take a close look at the dovetails if you can find any; in most cases they were covered by mouldings or hidden out of sight from prying consumers eyes. When you look at the joinery in these classic pieces you'll probably uncover rough cuts with loose fitting cheeks, perhaps the saw lines extend down further than the witness marks; Oh..the horror, I know. When contrasting woods were used it was probably due to a cheaper secondary wood and not for the fashion sense we're constantly reminded of. Were these craftsmen unskilled? Is it simply coincidence that these pieces are around for you to see a hundred years later? No. These skilled workers in wood simply didn't feel the dovetail was so much of a design feature as they felt it was the strongest possible joint they could execute for a particular application. In today's face-paced, fashion world where trends can come and fads can go, the joinery being 'marketed' by your favourite wood workers can sometimes feel like that's all it is. I think its great to practice cutting a joint and honing your skills; making a piece you can truly be proud of. But stop sometimes and ask yourself are you taking the time to cut those half blind dovetails so you can give that chest of drawers to your grand children's grandchildren, or is it to fetch an extra buck at the craft fair this Sunday?
RECENT COMMENT:
Hey Tom,
I really appreciate your blog, thanks for taking the time……………It was only a couple of months ago, I thought “blog” was a typo.
Well, I’m a novice woodworker and completely relate to your entry, “in the eyes of the beholder”. I’ve read a lot of woodworking articles, books and watched DVDs on dovetails. It always comes back to the same thing, how much time do you want to take? As you know, there is no substitute for time: the more time you spend the more proficient and skilled you become. I am satisfied with learning to cut dovetails by hand because I know my perfect dovetail will take time. Time to develop my own set of techniques and skills …………………I guess some people are just satisfied with the journey and some people need to arrive. For me, the art of working wood is not a means to an end but a quest to learn a skill that satisfies my soul. Could I make a living for my family building period furniture? Probably not but maybe someday I’ll the chance to cross that bridge too. It sure would be nice.
Thanks again,
James
"A perfectly executed, hand cut dovetail joint..." Oh yeah? It seems lately when I open up woodworking magazines or watch woodworking video clips everybody is talking about their perfect way to cut dovetails. Half-blinds and hounds tooth, better saws and better jigs. Doesn't matter if you use a hand saw, band saw or even some cross-cutting sled on your table saw, all you're going to hear is: "the perfect joint", "the best way to cut this or make that" perhaps even a "better way" in some one's eyes. What is perfection but some un-achievable measure of proficiency, skill, or excellence. Now don't get me wrong, I'm as guilty as the next guy. When I take the time to cut half blind dovetails I want them to be as near perfect as my hands will allow. I'll use contrasting woods so when you open up a drawer they'll jump right out at you. Why? Well let's go further back.It's kind of ironic that when we think of some of the greatest craftsmen in today's society names such as Sam Maloof or James Krenov immediately come to mind. Sam Maloof who takes 4" metal screws and drives them through his Chair legs to hold them in place. Now look at some of the most famous pieces by Krenov, dowelled together glorified butt joints; and don't get me started about Norm Abrams techniques...Now before you start sending me hate mail for bashing these great masters of the craft, let me start by saying that I admire them to the outer most limits; I find inspiration in all that they do and have studied anything and everything written on their works. But here lies the irony, today's young woodworkers are inundated with teachers pushing them towards excellence. No, their isn't anything wrong with striving towards excellence, but remember to stop every now and then and to ask yourself why. Is Sam Maloof wrong or any less a craftsman for using metal screws in his furniture? Is James Krenov cheapening his work by using a dowel to hold two pieces together instead of some elaborate joint? Go to an antique dealer or walk into a museum and look at the fine examples of hand crafted furniture. Pieces that have stood the tests of time and are the proof we need to justify the joinery in furniture construction. Take a close look at the dovetails if you can find any; in most cases they were covered by mouldings or hidden out of sight from prying consumers eyes. When you look at the joinery in these classic pieces you'll probably uncover rough cuts with loose fitting cheeks, perhaps the saw lines extend down further than the witness marks; Oh..the horror, I know. When contrasting woods were used it was probably due to a cheaper secondary wood and not for the fashion sense we're constantly reminded of. Were these craftsmen unskilled? Is it simply coincidence that these pieces are around for you to see a hundred years later? No. These skilled workers in wood simply didn't feel the dovetail was so much of a design feature as they felt it was the strongest possible joint they could execute for a particular application. In today's face-paced, fashion world where trends can come and fads can go, the joinery being 'marketed' by your favourite wood workers can sometimes feel like that's all it is. I think its great to practice cutting a joint and honing your skills; making a piece you can truly be proud of. But stop sometimes and ask yourself are you taking the time to cut those half blind dovetails so you can give that chest of drawers to your grand children's grandchildren, or is it to fetch an extra buck at the craft fair this Sunday?
RECENT COMMENT:
Hey Tom,
I really appreciate your blog, thanks for taking the time……………It was only a couple of months ago, I thought “blog” was a typo.
Well, I’m a novice woodworker and completely relate to your entry, “in the eyes of the beholder”. I’ve read a lot of woodworking articles, books and watched DVDs on dovetails. It always comes back to the same thing, how much time do you want to take? As you know, there is no substitute for time: the more time you spend the more proficient and skilled you become. I am satisfied with learning to cut dovetails by hand because I know my perfect dovetail will take time. Time to develop my own set of techniques and skills …………………I guess some people are just satisfied with the journey and some people need to arrive. For me, the art of working wood is not a means to an end but a quest to learn a skill that satisfies my soul. Could I make a living for my family building period furniture? Probably not but maybe someday I’ll the chance to cross that bridge too. It sure would be nice.
Thanks again,
James
Tuesday, February 26, 2008
When East meets West
Two Planes go Head to Head
These days, when you open up your favorite Woodworking Magazines you see an incredible amount of hand tools coming back into style by manufacturers from literally all over the world. While this indeed is a good thing for hand tool users and collectors, the amount of choices the amateur woodworker can have may be a little overwhelming. In this article I'm going to compare two of my favourite Smoothing planes, a Lie-Nielson No. 4, and a James Krenov custom smoother.
Tale of the Tapes
Lie-Nielson No. 4, Bronze Body
Length: 9 1/2"
Width: 2"
Weight: 4 lbs ., 10 oz.
Blade Thickness: 1/8"
Manufactured in Maine.
James Krenov Custom Smoother
Length: 8 1/2"
Width: 2 1/8"
Weight: 2 lbs., 4 oz.
Blade Thickness: 3/32"
Manufactured in California.
The first thing to mention when comparing these two planes is the obvious, one is an admittedly 'rough around the edges' wooden bodied plane and the other is a shiny and sleek looking, Bronze bodied plane based on a Stanley, Bedrock design. The Krenov has no front Knob or rear Tote, so using a plane with this style may take a little getting used to. The Lie-Nielson has a comfortable pistol grip tote, familiar to most of our Western style hand planes.
Both would be considered in the high end of quality in today's hand tool market and are quite compatible in price. So what's the difference and which one is for you?
Let's take a closer look.
Lie-Nielson No. 4
Let's start off by saying Lie-Nielson Tool works Inc. manufactures precision made, top-quality hand tools in Warren, Maine. They are quality through and through. Right out of the box these tools are hard to beat, high quality castings, beautifully shaped and finished Cherry handles and totes. The blades are A-2 cryogenically treated Tool Steel, hardened to Rockwell 60-62 and double tempered; they may need only a small amount of honing before use. The No. 4 is a Bench plane that is basically a re-designed Bedrock. The Bedrock was Stanley's top of the line planes, the biggest difference being in the frog assembly. The frog has a long bed that mates along the sole for a better supported iron with noticeably less chatter. Another advantage of this set-up is the ease at which you can adjust the throat opening. Two screws set behind the rear tote allows you to easily open or close the throat. No more fussing with the Lever Cap, loosening the iron and chip breaker, turning screws, putting things back together just to find it's not quite right.
The No. 4 is available in Bronze or Iron, I purchased the bronze version for the extra added weight. Not too mention, it looks pretty cool as well...Lie-Nielson also offers a Corrugated bottom version as well as a High-Angle frog upgrade.For smoothing hard reversing grain such as Birds Eye Maple, this plane works like a dream. Never any fussing, no surprises, just reliable performance every time. The No. 4 is in my opinion, the ultimate in Bedrock style hand planes and retails for $300.00 American. I think it's worth every cent.
James Krenov Custom Smoother
Now we'll go to the other end of the spectrum except however in performance. This plane is exactly what it's supposed to be. A simply made wooden bodied hand plane with minimal parts and not much else in the way of bells or whistles. Rough edges and dull finish, this plane may look as though an amateur woodworker cut it out using a dull steak knife. Funny how looks can be deceiving? As soon as you pick up this plane you realise those rough edges aren't so rough after all;perfectly shaped to meet the irregular hills and valleys of your hand. It is admittedly a little strange at first, the force is a downward pressure, with your hands lying in a more flattened but natural state. After using it for a few minutes you realize this downward pressure lends itself to optimum control. Fine adjustments are effortless with small movements and changes in your body weight. A much more organic movement you'll quickly discover small nuances in the grain of the wood. You'll be able to 'feel' the grain down through the plane body. The mechanical motion of the Lie-Nielson plane, while safe and predictable goes by the way side once you feel the difference in a wooden plane. You no longer will plane in that straight line; this plane allows you to explore with a rhythm and motion never experienced in hand planing. Circular motions, cross-grain fielding, and reversing exotic grains will become like silk. To adjust the blade a small hammer is used and sighting down the sole from the back, hold the plane upside down and gently tap the Iron until it just comes out of the throat. Another tap on the wedge and your ready to go. To retract the blade a repeated tap on the heel and that's all there is to it. Perhaps a little over-simplified but with a little practice, this will become second nature. The Krenov came with a Ron Hock blade and chip breaker. Hock tools is a small company in Fort Bragg, California. Starting in 1981, they've been making high quality steel for James Krenov and his students in the Fine Woodworking Program at College of the Redwoods. Now available world wide, they are some of the best plane irons available. I've recently fitted all of my old Stanley hand planes with Hock Chip breakers and Irons.
And the Winner Is...
So there you have it, the East meeting the West in hand plane technology. Which is better? I think that depends on the piece of wood or project you're dealing with. I tend to use the Lie-Nielson for larger areas and the Krenov for more delicate pieces. If I'm making a piece like a kitchen cabinet for someone and using a lot of figured Cherry, then I'll grab the Lie-Nielson; if on the other hand I'm shaping a small box out of figured Maple, perhaps a Christmas gift for a friend, then I'll always reach for the Krenov. Funny how simply holding a certain tool will change your thinking and/or working perspectives. One may inspire while the other offers a sense of security. Now, if I had to choose only one...?
RECENT COMMENTS:
Tom,
Great website and nice comments about the two smoothers. I think you may have put into words the best explanation I've read about how these planes actully feel in use, niceley done.
Dave
March 4, 2008 8:24 AM
These days, when you open up your favorite Woodworking Magazines you see an incredible amount of hand tools coming back into style by manufacturers from literally all over the world. While this indeed is a good thing for hand tool users and collectors, the amount of choices the amateur woodworker can have may be a little overwhelming. In this article I'm going to compare two of my favourite Smoothing planes, a Lie-Nielson No. 4, and a James Krenov custom smoother.Tale of the Tapes
Lie-Nielson No. 4, Bronze Body Length: 9 1/2"
Width: 2"
Weight: 4 lbs ., 10 oz.
Blade Thickness: 1/8"
Manufactured in Maine.
James Krenov Custom SmootherLength: 8 1/2"
Width: 2 1/8"
Weight: 2 lbs., 4 oz.
Blade Thickness: 3/32"
Manufactured in California.
The first thing to mention when comparing these two planes is the obvious, one is an admittedly 'rough around the edges' wooden bodied plane and the other is a shiny and sleek looking, Bronze bodied plane based on a Stanley, Bedrock design. The Krenov has no front Knob or rear Tote, so using a plane with this style may take a little getting used to. The Lie-Nielson has a comfortable pistol grip tote, familiar to most of our Western style hand planes.
Both would be considered in the high end of quality in today's hand tool market and are quite compatible in price. So what's the difference and which one is for you?
Let's take a closer look.
Lie-Nielson No. 4
Let's start off by saying Lie-Nielson Tool works Inc. manufactures precision made, top-quality hand tools in Warren, Maine. They are quality through and through. Right out of the box these tools are hard to beat, high quality castings, beautifully shaped and finished Cherry handles and totes. The blades are A-2 cryogenically treated Tool Steel, hardened to Rockwell 60-62 and double tempered; they may need only a small amount of honing before use. The No. 4 is a Bench plane that is basically a re-designed Bedrock. The Bedrock was Stanley's top of the line planes, the biggest difference being in the frog assembly. The frog has a long bed that mates along the sole for a better supported iron with noticeably less chatter. Another advantage of this set-up is the ease at which you can adjust the throat opening. Two screws set behind the rear tote allows you to easily open or close the throat. No more fussing with the Lever Cap, loosening the iron and chip breaker, turning screws, putting things back together just to find it's not quite right.
The No. 4 is available in Bronze or Iron, I purchased the bronze version for the extra added weight. Not too mention, it looks pretty cool as well...Lie-Nielson also offers a Corrugated bottom version as well as a High-Angle frog upgrade.For smoothing hard reversing grain such as Birds Eye Maple, this plane works like a dream. Never any fussing, no surprises, just reliable performance every time. The No. 4 is in my opinion, the ultimate in Bedrock style hand planes and retails for $300.00 American. I think it's worth every cent.
James Krenov Custom Smoother
Now we'll go to the other end of the spectrum except however in performance. This plane is exactly what it's supposed to be. A simply made wooden bodied hand plane with minimal parts and not much else in the way of bells or whistles. Rough edges and dull finish, this plane may look as though an amateur woodworker cut it out using a dull steak knife. Funny how looks can be deceiving? As soon as you pick up this plane you realise those rough edges aren't so rough after all;perfectly shaped to meet the irregular hills and valleys of your hand. It is admittedly a little strange at first, the force is a downward pressure, with your hands lying in a more flattened but natural state. After using it for a few minutes you realize this downward pressure lends itself to optimum control. Fine adjustments are effortless with small movements and changes in your body weight. A much more organic movement you'll quickly discover small nuances in the grain of the wood. You'll be able to 'feel' the grain down through the plane body. The mechanical motion of the Lie-Nielson plane, while safe and predictable goes by the way side once you feel the difference in a wooden plane. You no longer will plane in that straight line; this plane allows you to explore with a rhythm and motion never experienced in hand planing. Circular motions, cross-grain fielding, and reversing exotic grains will become like silk. To adjust the blade a small hammer is used and sighting down the sole from the back, hold the plane upside down and gently tap the Iron until it just comes out of the throat. Another tap on the wedge and your ready to go. To retract the blade a repeated tap on the heel and that's all there is to it. Perhaps a little over-simplified but with a little practice, this will become second nature. The Krenov came with a Ron Hock blade and chip breaker. Hock tools is a small company in Fort Bragg, California. Starting in 1981, they've been making high quality steel for James Krenov and his students in the Fine Woodworking Program at College of the Redwoods. Now available world wide, they are some of the best plane irons available. I've recently fitted all of my old Stanley hand planes with Hock Chip breakers and Irons.
And the Winner Is...
So there you have it, the East meeting the West in hand plane technology. Which is better? I think that depends on the piece of wood or project you're dealing with. I tend to use the Lie-Nielson for larger areas and the Krenov for more delicate pieces. If I'm making a piece like a kitchen cabinet for someone and using a lot of figured Cherry, then I'll grab the Lie-Nielson; if on the other hand I'm shaping a small box out of figured Maple, perhaps a Christmas gift for a friend, then I'll always reach for the Krenov. Funny how simply holding a certain tool will change your thinking and/or working perspectives. One may inspire while the other offers a sense of security. Now, if I had to choose only one...?RECENT COMMENTS:
Tom,
Great website and nice comments about the two smoothers. I think you may have put into words the best explanation I've read about how these planes actully feel in use, niceley done.
Dave
March 4, 2008 8:24 AM
Monday, February 25, 2008
Kitchen Cabinet Update
Modern Storage Solutions enhance a Traditional Design
Well, slowly but surely the Cherry kitchen cabinets are coming along quite nicely. This past weekend I've been working on a few ways to add some extra storage space to a relatively small foot print. These additions are common in modern kitchen design but I've tried to keep with the traditional appeal of the Arts and Crafts style by using solid wood and classic joinery. The first was the pull out shelf trays, instead of having to bend down and reach into the back of the lower cabinets, these shelf trays pull out like drawers enabling easy access to interior items. All made with solid Cherry and joined with hand-cut dovetails, these are a real compliment to the over-all design. The second storage solution was the addition of two pull out pantry style doors. The left side has three interior shelves perfect for canned goods and bottles. The right hand side features a shelf for dish clothes, detergents etc.. and has two dowels for hanging dish cloths and dry towels on. The bottom also has storage for taller items like cleansers and soap. The pantries are the full depth making a lot of extra storage space. I'll be using some heavy duty drawer slides for these appliances. With the addition of these spaces the storage has been doubled along this wall.
This kitchen will also have an central island that will house a nice bank of drawers, a dishwasher as well as a small secondary sink. I got a start on the bank of drawers as well over the weekend. The bottom drawer is a full 12" in height, perfect for over sized items like pots and pans. The middle one is just under 10" and the top section I divided in half to make two smaller units. This four drawer unit will sit next to the dishwasher and provide plenty of dish storage right where it's needed.
Well, slowly but surely the Cherry kitchen cabinets are coming along quite nicely. This past weekend I've been working on a few ways to add some extra storage space to a relatively small foot print. These additions are common in modern kitchen design but I've tried to keep with the traditional appeal of the Arts and Crafts style by using solid wood and classic joinery. The first was the pull out shelf trays, instead of having to bend down and reach into the back of the lower cabinets, these shelf trays pull out like drawers enabling easy access to interior items. All made with solid Cherry and joined with hand-cut dovetails, these are a real compliment to the over-all design. The second storage solution was the addition of two pull out pantry style doors. The left side has three interior shelves perfect for canned goods and bottles. The right hand side features a shelf for dish clothes, detergents etc.. and has two dowels for hanging dish cloths and dry towels on. The bottom also has storage for taller items like cleansers and soap. The pantries are the full depth making a lot of extra storage space. I'll be using some heavy duty drawer slides for these appliances. With the addition of these spaces the storage has been doubled along this wall.
This kitchen will also have an central island that will house a nice bank of drawers, a dishwasher as well as a small secondary sink. I got a start on the bank of drawers as well over the weekend. The bottom drawer is a full 12" in height, perfect for over sized items like pots and pans. The middle one is just under 10" and the top section I divided in half to make two smaller units. This four drawer unit will sit next to the dishwasher and provide plenty of dish storage right where it's needed.
Sunday, February 24, 2008
The Days are Getting Longer...

A Mid-February Canadian-Wood-Shop Morning Routine
This mornings 5 a.m. wake up call came as it always does; alarm clock tearing through my semi-unconscious state, lying there thinking "Do I really have to go out to work this morning"? Working alone and being ones own boss surely has it's advantages, but in these late winter un-ambitious final months of Canadian living there are unfortunately certain dis-advantages as well. Sometimes these frost filled early morning wake ups can take some real skill, I mean c'mon, forget about the wood working, we're talking about February in Canada. I always have to think of the job at hand, in this case the kitchen cabinets I'm building. I think of them as they will be in their finished state, the grain in the Cherry wood lifting off and out of the flatness in the frames and the panels. The hand rubbed oil finish glistening in some other early morning light. The client who has trusted me to build not only a piece of furniture for them, but to create a part of their home that will be used and enjoyed for years and years to come. This is what motivates me to go out into the dark morning wood shop, while this mid February frost still hangs over everything. Hey, it was only minus 4 today, too bad that was the inside of my shop. I long for a heated work space someday. Ah, this winter can't last forever right?
The coffee maker is programmed to come on about 15 minutes to five; you've gotta love technology. My shop is behind our home and it only takes me 30 seconds to get to work. So here I am, just past five a.m. and I'm crumbling old news paper and splitting old timbers. The shop cats greet me with the usual exchange. Night shift you know, if they could only learn to use a hand plane. I like to get moving, get the fire going, maybe grab a hand plane and try to peel off some shavings. Just to clear out the cobwebs and get the blood pumping, these early morning wood shop engagements are really quite fulfilling. I take a look at the previous days work, things are coming along. I can see the kitchen cabinets growing out of the saw dust. I know what has to be done today, but I'll sit awhile and hug my coffee mug, imagining the cabinets are completed. I stage out the install and check to double check each move towards the finish, making sure the cart doesn't get ahead of the horse. Building this many cabinets but not quite completing them is a real art. They won't be complete until I put them in a van and transport them to their new home, two hours away. I need to make sure they will go together as I planned, no surprises. I find my coffee cup is emptying and take a look around, the light has changed, my eyes adjust, the sun is coming up. This is it, this is why, the smell of the wood stove mingles with my coffee air as the East awakes to embrace this beautiful coast we call Belle Cote. I think again on the work ahead and find some comfort knowing that I'll get it done. Hey, I've got plenty of time, the days are getting longer.RECENT COMMENT
20 February 2008
Mr. Fidgen:
I discovered your interesting Weblog today and enjoyed reading all of your entries to date, as well as watching your videos. Very nice work. Thanks for taking the effort to inform and to share your knowledge, techniques, tool choices, and theories.
Thanks. Keep up the good work.
Phil Lang
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