Traditional Style Tool Chest

If you found this post chances are you’re interested in either building or purchasing a traditional style tool chest; either way you’re in luck!
For those who are looking for a tool chest design to build on your own, my new book “Made by Hand-Furniture Projects from the Unplugged Woodshop” will be available in November through Popular Woodworking Books and has the complete plans and building procedures to walk you through the process of building this design. Watch my blog for pre-order discounts and specials. For anyone that is interested in purchasing a Traditional Style Tool chest, I’m building a limited number of my Cabinetmakers Toolchest design. Due to my schedule I will only be able to offer six this coming year, they will all be signed, numbered and dated. Using only the finest solid hardwood and hand cut joinery, this will be a heirloom in years to come.
If you’re interested please contact me at tomfidgen at yahoo dot ca

Below are some shots of the unique work holding features incorporated into the design that will make this Toolchest double as a makeshift workbench while on job sites.









The Toolchest has a built in/removable shooting board on the lid. It can easily be removed to allow a larger work surface.

















The pre-drilled holes on the front and top allow for a surface clamp or hold fast to be used for work holding applications. Edge jointing, dressing or cutting joinery in the vertical position also works extremely well. I store two cam-clamps in the built in tray on the rear which are used to hold the toolchest in place while on site.





















The toolchest has a solid Poplar tool tray and can be customised in whatever wood species you'd like. Tools and clamps are not included but if you're interested in purchasing a 'finished model' with the clamps included just ask and I'll give you a quote.

Thanks and I'll look forward to hearing from you. Below is a blog I wrote on a another toolchest design I built last year. You'll be surprised at how much these things will hold!
Cheers.














Simple Joinery makes for Quick and Sturdy Construction

I'm just finishing a major cabinet project and have found some time between finishing coats to build a traditional style Tool Chest. I always had a tool cabinet in my shop as well as a peg board wall for hanging odd size tools but never seemed to be able to find the time to build a proper Tool Chest.
I think I started this train of thought after reading the latest issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine and seeing the great article on Gerstner & Sons. Truly amazing, 100 years. My initial thought was to simply copy the Gerstner style chest of drawers but once I started taking inventory of the "must have" tools I'd be putting in this thing,I quickly realised the chest of drawer design wasn't going to suit my purpose. What I did like about the Gerstner design is the simple construction methods that clearly could stand the test of time. Dadoes and rabbets, no fancy joinery; reliable and sensible I decided this would suit what I needed and wouldn't eat up alot of shop time. Having a background in wooden boat building I've always loved the old Mariner style Sea-Chests and thought of a way to incorporate the two styles while keeping the Chest relatively light.





The Carcass and Interior

For the top, bottom and two sides I used 4/4 Cherry. I joined the corners with a simple rabbet and dado joint. A stacked Dado on the Table Saw set-up with a wooden sacrificial fence made the job of cutting the joinery here quick and painless. Glue and Cherry dowels will assure this stays put for a long time. The front and back of the chest I made frame and panel style; the frame is again 4/4 Cherry joined with through mortise and tenons while the panels are off cuts of 1/4" plywood. This is a safe and stable material that will keep things from moving around in future climate changes. I built two drawers into the front bottom and installed sliding panels out of plywood to keep the drawers in place without having to resort to mechanical fasteners. Again on the table saw, a simple dado for the drawer corners keeps everything running smoothly. The drawers are solid Cherry for the front, back and sides while again plywood for the bottoms. The right hand drawer has a false bottom for two levels of storage. This is dedicated to drill bits, knives and chisels leaving the left drawer for lay-out tools. On the inside of the lid I made a custom cleat that holds my full size cross-cut saw, (this actually determined the Chests' width during the design stages of this project) to hold the end of the saw blade secure during transit, I added a strip of leather. I knew I wanted to leave the majority of the Chest interior open to accommodate larger items but always liked the whole "till" system you see in the old Mariner style Sea-Chests. I secured two cleats at the top inside of the Chest sides, about an inch lower than the lid bottom which enables the tills to hang safely inside. The rear till is slightly wider and deeper than the front to accommodate two back saws as well as some other items. I made some custom dividers and tool holders that actually can be a real mind-bender when you have to put things away. It's sort of a puzzle in the making when fitting tools into a small space like this. The front till handles some screwdrivers, spokeshaves and hammers. I'll include a full inventory of the Chest at the end of this article. I used some 'Flame Birch' for the tills I had kicking around my shop; it was good and dry as well as an aesthetically pleasing contrast to the Cherry. At this point it came time to make one of the hardest decisions of the entire design; which hand planes to take? Which ones were worthy of coming along to 'on-site' locations? I quickly got into the whole "If you could only take ten items to a desert island scenario..." I made myself a plywood template of the Chest bottom and on my Bench I started to arrange my hand planes. Moving them here to there, taking this one away and adding that one; when I finally decided on my plane selection as well as the orientation of the lay-out I traced around each one and using a small jig-saw, cut out the shapes. I then took this perfect template of the lay-out and glued it into the Chest bottom creating a kind of French-Fitted compartment which is much fancier than I originally anticipated. This method also helps to keep items from shifting when moving the Chest around.

Finishing Touches

I used a Piano style hinge across the back to hold the lid with a heavy-duty Bronze closure for the front. I had it left after a boat build I was working on last year and this proved a perfect application for the Naval hardware.(Note: A Ship Supply Store can be a great place to find interesting hardware suitable for all kinds of furniture making as well as being different than the stuff you'll find in most hardware stores.) The handle on the top is made from 5/4 Walnut. I made it wrap over and around the top to add some extra surface and help keep from pulling off while carrying it. Some glue, walnut dowels as well as some 3" wood screws driven up from the inside will hopefully take care of any movement in the handle. For the finish I decided to try a homemade method of 'Ebonising' the plywood panels. A simple mixture of steel wool in a mason jar covered with household vinegar and left to 'cook' for a few days turned the wood a rich Black. I added a second coat when it dried and finished it off by taking a card scraper and lightly scraping the black residue left behind. Over this as well as the entire Chest I rubbed on my now exclusive Oil and Varnish mixture. This really brought out the grain in the Cherry and will provide a strong finish. The Tried and True Oil/Varnish product has become the only finish I use and every time I apply it I like it more and more. This Traditional style Tool Chest was a quick and relatively painless project that will protect my tools for many years to come while keeping me fit everytime I have to move it.
Here are the overall dimensions of the Chest as well as a complete inventory of it's contents.

Dimensions:
Width: 28 5/8" Height: 16" Depth: 9 1/4"

Contents
Right Drawer:
Upper:
Set of 8 Forstner Bits, 1/4" to 5/8"
Set of 12 HSS Lipped Brad-Point Drill Bits, 5/64" to 1/4"
2 Paul Beebe carving Knives #8 and #12
Small block of Paraffin Wax to lubricate hand planes
Lower:
2 Lie-Nielson Mortise Chisels, 1/4" and 3/8"
2 Japanese Dovetail Chisels, 1/4" and 3/8"
1 Hand Counter Sink
Small Jewelers Style Drill with Bits
Stanley Scratch Awl
Hinge Centre Finding Punch
2 Lie-Nielson Gunsmith's style Screwdrivers

Left Drawer:
Sheffield made Rosewood Mortise/Marking Gauge
Sheffield made 3" Try/Miter Square
8" Steel Engineers Square
12" Combination Square
2 sets of Dividers, 4" and 8"
Dovetail Marker
6' Folding Rule
3" and 8" Sliding Bevel Gauge
10' Cabinetmakers Measuring Tape
Tite Mark III Marking Gauge
Brass Compass with pencil
6" Dial Calipers

Front Till:
10-1/2 oz Warrington Pattern Hammer
Veritas® 1-1/4 lb Journeyman's Brass Mallet
Veritas® Beading Tool with assorted Cutters
Veritas® Flat and Round Spokeshaves
4 Wooden Handled Screwdrivers
Assorted Card Scrapers with small Burnisher

Rear Till:
Lie-Nielson 15 tpi Dovetail Saw
Lie-Nielson 14 tpi Carcass Saw
Fret Saw
Lie-Nielson Side Rabbet Planes #98/99
James Krenov custom made Smoothing plane
Wood and Brass adjustable plane Hammer
Veritas® Detail Chisels, set of 5
Very old German made GENKO hand drill
24" Steel Centre-Finding Rule

Under Lid:
10 tpi Panel Saw

Interior Compartment:
Lee Valley Scrub plane
Lee Valley Small Router Plane
Lee Valley Plough Plane plus additional blades
Lie-Nielson #4 Bronze Smoothing Plane
Lie-Nielson # 5 1/2 Bench Plane
Lie-Nielson Skew Block Plane
Lie-Nielson Medium Shoulder Plane
Lie-Nielson Bronze Low-Angle Block Plane
Stanley #90 Rabbet Plane
1 set of custom made Mahogany and Brass Winding sticks

Amazing what you can squeeze into a relatively small footprint isn't it?
While I was finishing up this project I glanced out my rear shop window to see this friendly visitor helping himself to the fresh buds starting to grow on the trees. If you look closely at this picture, through the window just past the utility trailer you can spot the Moose...Bon Appétit!

Workbench Zen

Taking pride in not only what you build,
But where you build it

I find it rather ironic to see a beautifully made piece of furniture come out of a wood shop only to discover that the wood shop looks like a bomb went off inside of it. Tools left out everywhere, saw dust piled high, glue and paint stains on the work bench top, a broken vise...you get the idea. Maybe it’s just me but a work environment like the one described is no where I would be able to, nor would I care to work. I’ve been in a lot of wood shops, from high end production houses to basement hobby rooms and the one thing I’ve realized is that a well kept work space is very conducive to well made work. There is no coincidence in my mind of this.
The workbench
If you’ve gone through the trouble to build yourself a nice heavy-duty cabinetmakers workbench or spent your hard earned money to purchase one or maybe you’re one to use a hand-me-down “Work-Mate’ style bench your great grand Uncle left you, first and foremost is to keep it clean. Make sure the top is flat, clean and free of tools. Scrape it off after you do glue-ups or if you need to stain or paint on it, cover it up. You stand over this space for hours and hours on end, dreaming about how you’re going to transform some pieces of wood into a beautiful piece of furniture so; you may as well enjoy it. Even more, be proud of it. Make sure your vises work. A little oil every now and then and some adjusting to keep things running smoothly are imperative. How can you expect to split a knife line with a dovetail saw if the piece you’re trying to cut won’t stay perfectly still and chatter free? If your bench has a tool tray, brush it out at the days end, put your tools away in a tool cabinet or at the very least, hang them on a wall near by.
Placement
Where do you put your workbench? If at all possible, place your bench in front of, or near a window. The natural light will not only make things easier to see, it will make you feel better. Lighting is so very important when thinking about a workspace. Natural light mixed with artificial works best. I have a fixture directly over top of my bench as well as an adjustable lamp with a magnifying lens attached to the bench top. I’ve also installed two banks of fluorescent on the ceiling behind the bench. The more the merrier; I don’t think you can have too much light. Another thing to consider is the color of the walls in your bench room. I painted mine egg-shell white. This helps reflect light as well as keeps a neutral base when composing wood species for a specific design. I mentioned putting away tools and keeping a bench top clutter free, however, I do have a short list of tools I think everyone should keep at their workbenches.
The necessities
I find it very useful to keep this handful of tools at or on my bench at all times. It saves running to look for these most used items. First off a few sharp pencils; you may think this an obvious choice but I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been in other shops and had someone marching around screaming “Where are all of the pencils gone?” A 6” and a 24” metal ruler; I keep these hanging on the wall just above the bench. The six inch for measuring widths of smaller stock etc. the 24” I have is the centre finding variety. I find this comes in very handy for lay-outs.
Next is a measuring tape. Another obvious one but I always keep one here on the bench as well as one over in my machine room and another in my apron. You can never have enough of these. An 8” engineers square; a well machined precision square is essential when laying out joints. Two sets of dividers; I keep two sets of dividers hanging on the wall just above my bench. Used when laying out dovetails, they can be easily reached when doing multiple drawers and you want to keep the same measurements. A mallet; I made a simple mallet out of hard maple a few years ago and keep it standing proud on my bench top at all times. A small block of Paraffin wax; This is great when planning, just a few wipes on the plane sole and things get a little smoother. I find it also helps to rub on the teeth of your saw blades.A dust brush; It’s a great habit to get into, after you make a saw cut or plane a board just a quick swipe across the bench top and you’re done. You’d be surprised at how many times I’ve turned over a nice piece of finished stock to find a dimple or mark left in the face due to a tiny little wood chip left behind by an earlier operation. The brush keeps things clean.Under my Bench there are a few appliances that I always have at arms reach as well. These workshop aids are irreplaceable in mine. A shooting board, a miter hook and a bench hook. This trio pretty well covers all of the joinery jigs I need in my day to day shop activities. Any specialty or one off jig hang them on some un-used wall space out of the way, but these three, keep them close. They not only protect the bench top, they make the joinery easier.Lastly are a few hold down, clamping items. I always keep two 16” wooden cam clamps under my bench for an extra couple of hands when needed as well as a traditional style hold fast. This required drilling some holes in my bench top, but an incredibly useful aid to have around for holding odd shaped items or over sized pieces a traditional clamp can’t handle.

The Woodworker (1940)

I came across this old film and thought I'd share it here. Really great stuff, check out some of the old tools and workbenches shown in the background shots. Enjoy!

Shaker Style Lap Desk

A Lesson in Hand-Cut Dovetails

This is a small project I made this past winter. A gift for my wife, a school teacher who always sits with a pile of books and papers on her lap, it proved to be a pretty useful gift. Although it looks like a simple enough project, the joinery quickly became a lesson in cutting dovetails by hand.
The piece is a Shaker design I modified slightly in overall dimension. This version seemed to actually fit on my lap better and the angle of the top was adjusted as well. I used Black Walnut for the piece, the main carcass has hand cut through dovetails and sliding dadoes house the inner shelf, dividers and bottom.
The drawer was built in a very traditional way, solid wood for the interior as well as the drawer bottom. I used Butternut for the drawer sides and back with Poplar for the bottom. The top lid has battens on the interior to help keep things in place; I fastened these with Maple dowels down through the top for added strength as well as a visual accent. A fun piece to build it didn't take up too much time and doesn't need a whole lot of material. I used a hand rubbed oil finish on the exterior with wax on the inside. You could easily change the dimensions of the piece to suit your size requirements.

Treasures From the Far East

Hollows and Rounds...Made in China?















Being a user, collector and lover of hand planes I'm always keeping my eye out for rare or unusual styles. When recently surfing around the Japan Woodworker Online Catalogue I discovered some wooden bodied, Hollows and Rounds that are being manufactured in China. China? I thought...Why not, every thing else is made there so I decided to take a closer look. I've always wanted a nice old set of hollows and rounds; I've searched e-Bay, online and local antique tool dealers but always found that most you come across are over priced old planes that you'll need to spend a lot of time refurbishing to get them back to a user friendly state or are simply nice old tools for someone to put on a shelf and look at. I wanted something I could use and hopefully not have to spend a small fortune on.
After reading the description and studying the photos of these planes I decided to order a few select sizes. They're manufactured in China and arrived well-packaged in cardboard boxes with a borg logo on the side. (no Trek-ie affiliation as far as I could tell)


The description on the Japan Woodworker web-site said the planes have been manufactured in and around Hong Kong for the past 20 years by Mujingfang. They decided to begin producing these high quality Chinese Style Planes seeing that previously, it was a cottage industry with little or no quality control. Furniture makers in and around Hong Kong use hollowing and rounding planes to create moldings and for shaping pieces of furniture. The plane bodies are hand made from well aged Rosewood and are nicely contoured to fit the hand.
They are 6-1/4" long and width varies according to size. The blades are high carbon steel and although needed honing and sharpening on arrival, the extremely reasonable price made it worth my while. They are sold as a set of one hollowing and one rounding plane for each width. I went with the 1/4", 1/2", 1" and 1 1/4" widths. After using these planes for the past six months I'm very pleased with the quality and performance; as for the very-affordable prices all I can say is...Resistance is futile.

In the Eyes of the Beholder

Perfectly Executed...Ask yourself why.

"A perfectly executed, hand cut dovetail joint..." Oh yeah? It seems lately when I open up woodworking magazines or watch woodworking video clips everybody is talking about their perfect way to cut dovetails. Half-blinds and hounds tooth, better saws and better jigs. Doesn't matter if you use a hand saw, band saw or even some cross-cutting sled on your table saw, all you're going to hear is: "the perfect joint", "the best way to cut this or make that" perhaps even a "better way" in some one's eyes. What is perfection but some un-achievable measure of proficiency, skill, or excellence. Now don't get me wrong, I'm as guilty as the next guy. When I take the time to cut half blind dovetails I want them to be as near perfect as my hands will allow. I'll use contrasting woods so when you open up a drawer they'll jump right out at you. Why? Well let's go further back.
It's kind of ironic that when we think of some of the greatest craftsmen in today's society names such as Sam Maloof or James Krenov immediately come to mind. Sam Maloof who takes 4" metal screws and drives them through his Chair legs to hold them in place. Now look at some of the most famous pieces by Krenov, dowelled together glorified butt joints; and don't get me started about Norm Abrams techniques...Now before you start sending me hate mail for bashing these great masters of the craft, let me start by saying that I admire them to the outer most limits; I find inspiration in all that they do and have studied anything and everything written on their works. But here lies the irony, today's young woodworkers are inundated with teachers pushing them towards excellence. No, their isn't anything wrong with striving towards excellence, but remember to stop every now and then and to ask yourself why. Is Sam Maloof wrong or any less a craftsman for using metal screws in his furniture? Is James Krenov cheapening his work by using a dowel to hold two pieces together instead of some elaborate joint? Go to an antique dealer or walk into a museum and look at the fine examples of hand crafted furniture. Pieces that have stood the tests of time and are the proof we need to justify the joinery in furniture construction. Take a close look at the dovetails if you can find any; in most cases they were covered by mouldings or hidden out of sight from prying consumers eyes. When you look at the joinery in these classic pieces you'll probably uncover rough cuts with loose fitting cheeks, perhaps the saw lines extend down further than the witness marks; Oh..the horror, I know. When contrasting woods were used it was probably due to a cheaper secondary wood and not for the fashion sense we're constantly reminded of. Were these craftsmen unskilled? Is it simply coincidence that these pieces are around for you to see a hundred years later? No. These skilled workers in wood simply didn't feel the dovetail was so much of a design feature as they felt it was the strongest possible joint they could execute for a particular application. In today's face-paced, fashion world where trends can come and fads can go, the joinery being 'marketed' by your favourite wood workers can sometimes feel like that's all it is. I think its great to practice cutting a joint and honing your skills; making a piece you can truly be proud of. But stop sometimes and ask yourself are you taking the time to cut those half blind dovetails so you can give that chest of drawers to your grand children's grandchildren, or is it to fetch an extra buck at the craft fair this Sunday?

RECENT COMMENT:
Hey Tom,
I really appreciate your blog, thanks for taking the time……………It was only a couple of months ago, I thought “blog” was a typo.
Well, I’m a novice woodworker and completely relate to your entry, “in the eyes of the beholder”. I’ve read a lot of woodworking articles, books and watched DVDs on dovetails. It always comes back to the same thing, how much time do you want to take? As you know, there is no substitute for time: the more time you spend the more proficient and skilled you become. I am satisfied with learning to cut dovetails by hand because I know my perfect dovetail will take time. Time to develop my own set of techniques and skills …………………I guess some people are just satisfied with the journey and some people need to arrive. For me, the art of working wood is not a means to an end but a quest to learn a skill that satisfies my soul. Could I make a living for my family building period furniture? Probably not but maybe someday I’ll the chance to cross that bridge too. It sure would be nice.

Thanks again,
James

When East meets West

Two Planes go Head to Head
These days, when you open up your favorite Woodworking Magazines you see an incredible amount of hand tools coming back into style by manufacturers from literally all over the world. While this indeed is a good thing for hand tool users and collectors, the amount of choices the amateur woodworker can have may be a little overwhelming. In this article I'm going to compare two of my favourite Smoothing planes, a Lie-Nielson No. 4, and a James Krenov custom smoother.

Tale of the Tapes

Lie-Nielson No. 4, Bronze Body
Length: 9 1/2"
Width: 2"
Weight: 4 lbs ., 10 oz.
Blade Thickness: 1/8"
Manufactured in Maine.

James Krenov Custom Smoother
Length: 8 1/2"
Width: 2 1/8"
Weight: 2 lbs., 4 oz.
Blade Thickness: 3/32"
Manufactured in California.

The first thing to mention when comparing these two planes is the obvious, one is an admittedly 'rough around the edges' wooden bodied plane and the other is a shiny and sleek looking, Bronze bodied plane based on a Stanley, Bedrock design. The Krenov has no front Knob or rear Tote, so using a plane with this style may take a little getting used to. The Lie-Nielson has a comfortable pistol grip tote, familiar to most of our Western style hand planes.
Both would be considered in the high end of quality in today's hand tool market and are quite compatible in price. So what's the difference and which one is for you?
Let's take a closer look.

Lie-Nielson No. 4
Let's start off by saying Lie-Nielson Tool works Inc. manufactures precision made, top-quality hand tools in Warren, Maine. They are quality through and through. Right out of the box these tools are hard to beat, high quality castings, beautifully shaped and finished Cherry handles and totes. The blades are A-2 cryogenically treated Tool Steel, hardened to Rockwell 60-62 and double tempered; they may need only a small amount of honing before use. The No. 4 is a Bench plane that is basically a re-designed Bedrock. The Bedrock was Stanley's top of the line planes, the biggest difference being in the frog assembly. The frog has a long bed that mates along the sole for a better supported iron with noticeably less chatter. Another advantage of this set-up is the ease at which you can adjust the throat opening. Two screws set behind the rear tote allows you to easily open or close the throat. No more fussing with the Lever Cap, loosening the iron and chip breaker, turning screws, putting things back together just to find it's not quite right.
The No. 4 is available in Bronze or Iron, I purchased the bronze version for the extra added weight. Not too mention, it looks pretty cool as well...Lie-Nielson also offers a Corrugated bottom version as well as a High-Angle frog upgrade.For smoothing hard reversing grain such as Birds Eye Maple, this plane works like a dream. Never any fussing, no surprises, just reliable performance every time. The No. 4 is in my opinion, the ultimate in Bedrock style hand planes and retails for $300.00 American. I think it's worth every cent.

James Krenov Custom Smoother
Now we'll go to the other end of the spectrum except however in performance. This plane is exactly what it's supposed to be. A simply made wooden bodied hand plane with minimal parts and not much else in the way of bells or whistles. Rough edges and dull finish, this plane may look as though an amateur woodworker cut it out using a dull steak knife. Funny how looks can be deceiving? As soon as you pick up this plane you realise those rough edges aren't so rough after all;perfectly shaped to meet the irregular hills and valleys of your hand. It is admittedly a little strange at first, the force is a downward pressure, with your hands lying in a more flattened but natural state. After using it for a few minutes you realize this downward pressure lends itself to optimum control. Fine adjustments are effortless with small movements and changes in your body weight. A much more organic movement you'll quickly discover small nuances in the grain of the wood. You'll be able to 'feel' the grain down through the plane body. The mechanical motion of the Lie-Nielson plane, while safe and predictable goes by the way side once you feel the difference in a wooden plane. You no longer will plane in that straight line; this plane allows you to explore with a rhythm and motion never experienced in hand planing. Circular motions, cross-grain fielding, and reversing exotic grains will become like silk. To adjust the blade a small hammer is used and sighting down the sole from the back, hold the plane upside down and gently tap the Iron until it just comes out of the throat. Another tap on the wedge and your ready to go. To retract the blade a repeated tap on the heel and that's all there is to it. Perhaps a little over-simplified but with a little practice, this will become second nature. The Krenov came with a Ron Hock blade and chip breaker. Hock tools is a small company in Fort Bragg, California. Starting in 1981, they've been making high quality steel for James Krenov and his students in the Fine Woodworking Program at College of the Redwoods. Now available world wide, they are some of the best plane irons available. I've recently fitted all of my old Stanley hand planes with Hock Chip breakers and Irons.

And the Winner Is...

So there you have it, the East meeting the West in hand plane technology. Which is better? I think that depends on the piece of wood or project you're dealing with. I tend to use the Lie-Nielson for larger areas and the Krenov for more delicate pieces. If I'm making a piece like a kitchen cabinet for someone and using a lot of figured Cherry, then I'll grab the Lie-Nielson; if on the other hand I'm shaping a small box out of figured Maple, perhaps a Christmas gift for a friend, then I'll always reach for the Krenov. Funny how simply holding a certain tool will change your thinking and/or working perspectives. One may inspire while the other offers a sense of security. Now, if I had to choose only one...?

RECENT COMMENTS:

Tom,
Great website and nice comments about the two smoothers. I think you may have put into words the best explanation I've read about how these planes actully feel in use, niceley done.

Dave

March 4, 2008 8:24 AM